Culinary Commentary

Watertown Daily Times

Cavallario's Menu Varied, Very Good

By Dr. Lazaro, Special to The Times

It is officially the season of the tourist. In keeping with tha theme, we decided to venture to the densest concentration of out-of-towners to search out a restaurant that caters to those on vacation.

Our instincts carried us to Alexandria Bay and a table for four at Cavallario's, an institution on the river in summer.

A facade resembling a Medieval castle suggests the days of chivalry. Going through the doors, you are greeted by a pair of empty suits of armor and then by a windowless room highlighted with mirrors and tiny lights and bustling with a tuxedo-shirted service staff.

Giant menus scared us at first, because it is very difficult to maintain a high degree of quality when so much is offered. Let your fears be quelled; the food here is great.

Heavy-duty grazing begins the instant you are seated. A pewter dish arrives with a selection of marinated carrots, a salad of creamy kidney beans and a nondescript pasta and broccoli salad.

A loaf of warm bread comes along, its top awash in garlic butter.

An entire meal can be had from the appetizer selections. Oysters Rockefeller are tender puffs crowned with a finely chopped spinach topping that lends robust flavors.

An order of mussels is a fantastic idea as a first course. A deep white dish arrives covered, and savory steam escapes when the lid is lifted. Inside, the gaping shells hold succulent testes made wonderful with garlic butter and sherry. Once the shells are empty, it is advisable to dunk bread bits into the remaining pools of luscious liquid.

Barbecued pork ribs are also dynamite. The rack is sliced before service and provides as much satisfaction as a rib eater could want. A bowl of warm water and lemon is provided for clean-up once the bones have been gnawed bare.

Finally, for the person who loves hot things, there is an order of Kathy's HOT peppers. the volcanic, soupy saute of peppers, onions and mushrooms is enough to clean out your sinuses.

Soup of the day was a seafood bisque, and the pink, creamy liquid we consumed let loose with a detectable essence of scallops, crab and shrimp accentuated with the magic of sherry.

Salads at Cavallario's are a step above the norm with a variety of greens, colorful additions and a wedge or two of mandarin orange. Dressings are served on the side, wtih the patron deciding on a smidgen or a tidal wave of creamy bleu cheese, Thousand Island or Italian.

Entrees left us stunned. Seafood pasta was a feast of great items such as calamari, scallops, shrimp and mussels in a cream sauce. Extra punch came from the addition of smoked trout that lent a distinctive and essential element to the taste of the concoction, which was served with a very ample portion of al dente linguine. All one needed to do was grace the top with some parmesan cheese and enjoy.

If dieting is part of your vacation, Cavallario's offers New England scrod with vegetables a la Pritkin. The silky white filet is poached in wine without salt, fats or sugars. Presented among fresh steamed vegetables, this is clean and healthy food.

For the rest of us I might suggest the peppercorn siloin. Prepared exactly according to the medium-rare specifications, this succulent steak arrived sliced in a shallow pool of juices that carried with them the punch of the pepper along with the muscle of garlic and the earthiness of chopped parsley. Tender as any around, this is a very serious steak for the die-hard beef lover.

Finally, there is a new menu addition this season that was as delicious as any other main dish we sampled. The chef begins with a sizable veal loin chop that is then stuffed with a smashing mix of spinach and sun-dried tomatoes. Grilled to a moist degree of perfection, the top of the young meat is then strewn with a few mushrooms that have been sauteed and moistened with a bit of beefy brown sauce. Every bite released a mouthful of pure pleasure.

We risked an overdose and forged ahead with dessert orders. Key lime pie is a crisp and cleansing way to end any meal. More serious indulgers will have a ball with the macadamia nut mocha fudge pie; its nut crust, liquored coffee ice cream, fudge and whipped cream are a sure prescription for additional body weight.

A step out of the realm of regular desserts is assured with the rum cake cassata. Pebbly textured cake is alive with rum, topped with chocolate sauce and embellished with nuts and whipped cream.

A more restrained approach is available with a simple parfait of vanilla ice cream, Amaretto and toasted almonds.

Regardless of your choice, the result is the same. These are all good desserts.

What's the bottom line? Cavallario's is a benchmark eatery that has suitable surroundings, attentive service and great food.

Early dinners arrive in shorts toting kids along. As the evening wears on, the guests dress a bit more seriously and the children disappear. Appetizers average $4 to $6.50, while entrees span a range from $12.50 to $25.